• Dino Joannides

Corkscrew out: Noble Rot - Beaujolais with pork?

Updated: Jan 14, 2019

The Restaurant

Noble Rot Restaurant & Wine Bar is located in an atmospheric townhouse on Lamb’s Conduit Street, a chain-free zone in Bloomsbury’s (Holborn) with a wide range of interesting independent shops, cafes and restaurants (the residents actually forced out Starbucks!).

The List

Owners Dan Keeling and Mark Andrew are veterans of the UK wine trade and publishers of wine-zine Noble Rot, so unsurprisingly the theme here is wine, wine and more wine. The ever-expanding list is huge and peppered with gems from the world’s best producers. Lots of wines are available by the glass and you will find old, rare and obscure wines a-plenty. Markups are some of the lowest in London, so this really is the place to go if you want to splurge (although lots of reasonably priced bottles are also available).

The Food

Head chef Paul Weaver and Consultant chef Stephen Harris from Michelin-starred The Sportsman in Whitstable oversee the menu, which offers classic French bistro dishes with a modern English twist. Small dishes and cheeses are also available at the bar. One of the signature dishes is/was Turbot braised in oxidised 1998 Bâtard-Montrachet (a white burgundy that would be worth £350, if it wasn’t oxidised!). They won’t be able to get any more of this faulty wine so when it’s gone…

The Pairing

Tamworth Pork Terrine/Domaine de la Gran’Cour Brouilly Vieilles Vignes

A white meat with delicate flavour, pork is often best suited to white wines. A dry Vouvray (Chenin Blanc from the Loire) or a German or Alsatian Riesling would work perfectly with most pork dishes. However, rare breed pigs have a gamier flavour and their meat (like Spanish Iberico breeds) is darker and more dense. Here a light red (a full-bodied red would completely dominate) with high acidity was an excellent choice. The wine was made by one of Beaujolais’ leading producers from 50 year old vines that give amazing depth of flavour. Spicy, intense and gamey, this is a million miles away from Beaujolais Nouveau. The acidity of the wine cuts perfectly through the richness of the terrine, but has just enough weight to harmonise and not overpower.

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